1998: Africa - Preparations
February 11, 2008
February 1998
We had a big planning meeting for the Africa trip. The top editor began the meeting with a rule: “No bribes. We don’t pay bribes.”
Then he said, “We’re only going to use about six photos while you’re there and maybe three or four when you get back.”
Only ten photographs, I thought. Wow.
While LDS Church President Gordon B. Hinckley would be stopping in several countries, we wouldn’t be able to match his private-jet itinerary. We were flying commercial. Our best bets were to catch up with him in Ghana (Accra), Zimbabwe (Harare), and South Africa (Johannesburg and Cape Town). The editor insisted we get Kenyan visas just in case something happened, and we decided to pass on Nigeria altogether.

The issue of health came up next. We would need yellow fever and typhoid vaccinations, as well as malaria pills. I told this joke: “I’m not too worried about getting sick; I’m taking lots of condoms.” No one laughed.
A reporter with the San Francisco Chronicle had gone to Ghana (our first stop) for a story on the Mormon church there. Peggy called him up to find out what to expect.
“The airport in Accra is the most frightening, chaotic place I’ve ever been,” he said.
I bought a couple guidebooks and read all I could.
A line from the novel Malaria Dreams, by Stuart Stevens: “I had been in Bangui less than ten minutes when I was robbed for the first time. This proved to be very fortunate. Muggings, rape and murder, I quickly discovered, were the pillars of conversation among the white community, and my introductory theft gave me something to talk about on the party circuit.”
From the guidebook Africa on a Shoestring: “Zimbabwe, Dangers & Annoyances: Some taxi drivers may drop clients far enough from their door to allow accomplices to rob them with knives.”
But I’m not too worried about running into trouble. Our departure is set for Friday the 13th.
Since Rick has our remote kit at the Olympics in Japan, I’ve picked up a cool Powerbook 2400c. It’s very small and light. For cameras, I’m packing a ton of film (both color and black and white) with the following camera equipment:
Leica M6 with 21/2.8 and 35/2 lenses
Nikon F5 with 35/2, 85/1.8, and 180/2.8 lenses
Mamiya 7 with 43mm lens
Off we go.
Links to the rest of this series:
Preparations
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